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Villers-Marmery is an oddity in the Montagne de Reims, as it is nearly entirely planted with Chardonnay, and with a selection that is to be found nowhere else in Champagne. Brad Baker writes that “This wasn’t always the case: at the beginning of the twentieth century, the village was split fairly equally between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. One theory says this is the chief reason that the village is classified as a 1^er Cru rather than a Grand Cru like neighboring Verzenay and Verzy. Had Villers-Marmery been at least 90% Chardonnay at the time of the classification, its terroir, much more suited to Chardonnay, would have ensured it Grand Cru status.”

Les Alouettes is a joyous wine, bursting with things to say. Ripe yellow fruit, and a beautiful creamy texture, take the lead. Nevertheless, this is still a Hugues Godmé wine with a sense of age worthiness, reserve and restraint, and though in this particular cuvée the chalk remains in the choir, it is still powerful and grounding, and it infuses Les Alouettes with finesse and great length.